Most itineraries treat Kampala as a place to fly into and drive straight out of. That's a mistake. Given one good day, I take people through Owino Market first, before the heat sets in, then up to a rooftop for lunch with a view over the city's seven hills.

The afternoon is for the Kasubi Tombs and slower streets, and I like to end the day exactly where I started, at street level, with something grilled and a Rolex from a stall I trust.
Kampala rewards people who are willing to walk and eat with their hands.

